This allows much latitude for stem adjustment in search of the sweet spot. You truly can have your cake and eat it. If you later decide you prefer the stem down towards the headset, you can remove the fork and lop off the excess. Or leave like that because you never know. Having said that, though, long spacer-covered extensions above the stem are not exactly elegant…or cool. Cut them back when, over time, you have experimented and found the height that works for you. You can also raise and lower handlebar height on a threadless stem with an adjustable bike stem.
These work on a pivot a little forward of the steerer allowing a rider to raise the handlebars quite a lot. Not for the sports rider, this sort of kit. A city bike around town, or trekking longer distances perhaps. Moreover, combining this type of stem with a riser bar gives the casual rider an extremely upright posture on a bike frame that would not otherwise allow it.
Small changes in stack height make a noticeable difference for cyclists who spend a lot of time in the saddle. Raising handlebar height 5mm, for example, gives a feeling of reduced responsiveness the payoff being, perhaps, increased comfort.
I say perhaps since this whole issue is very personal. Each cyclist has their particular comfort zone often more subjective and imagined than demonstrably objective. The trick is to find it. We demonstrate on a road bike that accepts an integrated headset. The main components are as with any integrated headset. There is the top and bottom OS sealed bearings, the lower bearing race and the compression ring.
The one difference is the lack of a spacer that normally sits on top of the compression ring beneath the seal. The most important part of this component set is the seal. The design provides an internally mounted threaded sleeve which winds up or down as you rotate the outer casing.
Turning the outer casing to the limit achieves the full 7mm extension. The edge at the base of the cone is burred; getting a grip with greasy or sweaty hands is not a problem. Yes, you could adjust your spacer and stack height out on the road. You have to know the correct technique to make use of this feature though. We show how it all works in the remainder of this article.
The headset on this bike is a OEM version of a First integrated headset. This type of headset has a rubber gasket just below the top of the seal which forms a firm seal to the steerer. Pulling the fork down presses the seal against the head tube, easily sliding it a few centimeters up the steerer. I imagine its to do with the steerer tube not supposed to take loads of torque from the stem — top headset bearing race.
As many as you want. It can have no effect on tightening the headset — they are to all intents and purposes incompressible given the amount of force to tension a headset.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 of 6 total. Worse, if the user has a tall spacer stack above the stem, there may be no support at all inside of the stem clamp. And, critically, even if the expander is in the right spot inside of the stem, it provides no support of the steering tube below the stem. That may be enough, and for most riders it probably is, but I insist on a bigger margin of safety for a really big rider; I want to reinforce a long way down inside of the headset, even if the rider uses a bunch of spacers below or above his stem, or both.
Long ago, we had True Temper make special carbon forks called Alpha Q Z-Pro for us for tall bikes; they had mm-long double-thickness steering tubes. When True Temper quit making carbon fiber bike equipment, Ben Serotta, who had bought the Reynolds Composites factory, made carbon forks for us with mm steering tubes. Both of these steerers have the same wall thickness at the top as all ENVE forks and come with a standard expander plug.
The Alpha-Q insert was four inches mm long and had a star nut pounded down into its bore. Wheels Manufacturing , which is conveniently located near us, now makes us a five-inch-long mm aluminum sleeve insert with integrated thread inside for the top cap bolt.
We glue it in with JB Weld epoxy. We first sand inside the steerer, blow it out with compressed air, and wipe it clean inside with a clean rag soaked in rubbing alcohol. After epoxying it in, we leave it sit for 24 hours before adjusting the headset and tightening the stem clamp.
We sell that insert separately.
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